What Is An Asscher Cut Diamond: History + Buying Tips

Table of Contents

  • What Is An Asscher Cut Diamond? 
  • Asscher Cut vs. Princess
  • Asscher Cut vs. Emerald
  • History of the Asscher Cut Diamond


Of all the stunning diamond cuts, the Asscher cut diamond is one of unique brilliance. With a modern facet pattern and captivating step-cut style, it’s no wonder the Asscher diamond is such a popular stone choice. 

If you’re looking to purchase a lab diamond engagement ring or piece of fine jewelry, you may be wondering what makes Asscher cut engagement rings such a captivating choice for a forever adornment. 

From what it looks like to the history and price point of the Asscher cut diamond, we put together a comprehensive guide to help you in your search. Read on to learn everything you need to know about Asscher cut diamonds

What Is An Asscher Cut Diamond? 

Hera Accented Asscher Cut Engagement Ring in 14K Rose Gold

An Asscher cut is an octagonal diamond with a square shape and step-cut facets. Many describe it as a blend between the princess cut and emerald cut shape. While the Asscher cut can appear as a square shape, its corners are clipped, creating a modern octagonal form. This shape also features a deep pavilion and high crown which offers optimal brilliance. 

Because the Asscher cut diamond features step-cut facets, which look like stairs, this shape is popular in Art Deco designs. This design era from the 1920s features geometric patterns and abstract styles. Many brides choose this style for a modern take on a vintage look. 

There are two types of Asscher cuts. The most common is the standard cut, though there is also a Royal Asscher cut. ​​Rarer than the traditional Asscher, the Royal Asscher cut is perfectly symmetrical and has a higher crown.

Asscher Cut vs. Princess

Since the Asscher cut is considered to be a blend of the princess and emerald cut, many get confused as to the differences between the two shapes. 

A princess cut diamond is square in shape with sharp corners, whereas an Asscher cut diamond is square in shape with cropped edges, giving the silhouette of an octagon. Princess diamonds are also a modified brilliant cut, making them more brilliant than Asscher diamonds. 

Asscher Cut vs. Emerald

Similar to the differences between Asscher and princess, there is also a significant difference between Asscher and emerald. 

While Asscher is square with cropped and angled corners, an emerald is rectangular in shape with sharp corners. Additionally, while Asscher is a mix between brilliant and step-cut, an emerald is considered a step-cut. This makes Asscher more sparkly, whereas emeralds emit a hall of mirrors sparkle.

History of the Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut diamond is steeped in rich history, which makes it such a prized stone shape. The original Asscher cut diamond was invented in 1902 by Joseph of the Asscher family Royal Asscher Diamond Company. He received a patent for the cut, protecting it up until WWII. 

However, between its creation and WWII, the Asscher cut was popularized, particularly in Art Deco jewelry designs. It peaked in popularity in the 1920s, which is one of the reasons many modern brides see Asscher-cut diamonds as a vintage statement.

The Asscher cut diamond declined in popularity until 1999 when the Asscher brothers Edward and Joop Asscher modernized the cut, also known as the Royal Asscher. This improved design was created by using modern diamond-cutting techniques to improve the quality of the traditional Asscher diamond. This included raising the crown and adding more facets for added brilliance.

Rhea Classic Asscher Cut Engagement Ring in 18K White Gold

Today, the Asscher cut diamond is a nod to the past with modern elements that elevate its look to create a brilliant center stone. 

Best Settings for Asscher Cut Diamonds

Since the Asscher cut diamond is a beautiful and unique design, there are dos and don’ts to consider when choosing the right diamond ring setting or unique men’s wedding band

For starters, because Asscher cut diamonds are most popular in vintage engagement ring styles, it’s important to consider antique looks like warm metal tones. Since the Asscher cut diamond features a boxy silhouette, it can sometimes be challenging to choose the right setting. Here are some of the best settings for Asscher cut diamond engagement rings. 

1. Rose Gold

Rose gold is an alloy made primarily from a combination of pure gold and copper. The blend of the metals changes the color of the final product and its karat. This means 14K rose gold will look slightly different from 18K—not to mention the difference in durability.

Of all the metal types, rose gold is the most popular in vintage designs. This is because rose gold was the most popular metal type in the 1920s. Set in a simple, yet captivating rose gold band, the Asscher diamond stands out as a center stone. 

2. Milgrain

Milgrain is often described as “tiny dots” along the edges of a piece of jewelry or engagement ring. This design technique features small beads of metal that are used to create borders around the prongs.

The metalwork can elevate a simple band without adding sparkle. Milgrain was especially popular in past decades, making it another great option for a modern take on vintage style. 

3. Art Deco

Along with emerald cut diamonds, Asscher cut diamonds are known for their nod to the Art Deco style of the 1920s. This makes them a top choice for vintage settings. 

Settings with geometric lines, flourishes of color, and unique metalwork pair perfectly with an Asscher center stone or multiple side stones while appearing uniquely vintage.  

4. Accented

Accented engagement ring settings are a classic style that pair well with just about any stone shape. This is why they’re such a great choice for a captivating diamond shape like the Asscher cut. 

With accented rings, you can choose from a variety of stone shapes to create the design you want. When set with a center Asscher cut diamond, settings with round white topaz vs. diamond side stones help to produce a more modern look from a vintage center stone or diamond shape. 

Are Asscher Cut Diamonds More Expensive?

No, Asscher cut diamonds are not more expensive. Unlike the round brilliant which features an ideal facet pattern, the Asscher cut diamond is a mix between a brilliant and a step-cut diamond. So while it looks captivating in its own right, this means it doesn’t feature an ideal facet pattern and therefore costs less. This is similar when looking at the price point for non-brilliant cut shapes like marquise, pear, and radiant. 

Just as with any stone shape, the price of an Asscher cut diamond will depend on its inclusions, color, cut grade, and carat weight. The higher the quality of a diamond, the higher the price point. Whereas the lower the quality, the lower the price point. 

But lowering your quality standards isn’t the only way to get a good deal on an Asscher cut diamond. Lab grown diamonds can cost up to 50% less than mined diamonds, meaning you can get the high quality you want at the most affordable price point. Or, you can upgrade your carat weight for the same cost as a smaller mined diamond. 

Find out if heart shaped diamonds are more expensive

Tips for Buying Asscher Cut Diamonds

Now that you know what an Asscher cut diamond is, how it compares to other shapes, its price point and the top settings to consider, there’s just one last step: buying one. 

Even with the basic information, purchasing the right diamond can feel overwhelming at times. We put together a few tips to help you choose the right diamond to set in a forever adornment. 

  1. Opt for better color: Because of the Asscher diamond’s unique facet pattern, it’s easier to see color to the naked eye. That’s why we recommend choosing a color grade between I (near colorless) and D (colorless). 
  2. Choose fewer flaws: Similar to the enhanced visibility of color with Asscher diamonds, inclusions and blemishes are also easier to see to the naked eye. Due to this, we recommend choosing a higher diamond clarity grade between VS2 diamond clarity (very slightly included) to IF (internally flawless). 
  3. Consider depth: With Asscher cut diamonds, the lower the total depth, the better it is. We recommend choosing a total depth between 60 to 68%. This is because Asscher diamonds are part brilliant cut or step cut, and depth is much more important for brilliant cuts. 

Is an Asscher Diamond Right for You?

Asscher cut diamonds are a beautiful choice for anyone looking for a unique engagement ring with nods to the past and present. It’s one of the only diamond shapes that features such a unique facet pattern, and because of this, its sparkle will be one-of-a-kind. 

At 12FIFTEEN, we offer a variety of engagement ring setting to pair with your perfect lab Asscher cut diamond. If you need additional help finding the perfect one for your only one, reach out to our customer support team. 

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